Thursday, February 23, 2006

Your first tailored suit

There are a few things you may like to know about outfitting yourself in your first tailored suit from Modernize Tailors.

To achieve an elegant fit, you will be measured by one of the master tailors. To help us understand your preferences and your anatomical form, we recommend you bring in one of your favourite suit jackets even if it doesn't fit you.

Your favourite blazer reveals much about your personality and preferences. It may have details that you are accustomed to having and, yet, you may not have noticed them. At Modernize Tailors, we take note of those little comforts and will provide you with a vocabulary (a suit semiotic, if you will) that best describes your style.

A jacket you hate is just as good. As it will aid in our discussion about what you are looking for in your new suit.

You should know that we make all our jackets in Modernize's workshop. The bolt of fabric you pick on your first visit is the very one we cut by hand on our cutting table. If we must order another bolt, we'll tell you because every bolt of wool is different. And, by the way, many of the great tailors of Savile Row no longer make pants in-house. We do (and we recommend you order two - bottoms do wear out).

Then you toddle off. Bring a swatch to your wife or significant other. Call us immediately, if he or she disapproves, because promptly our master coat maker will baste together the jacket without sleeves or lining.

A week after ordering, sometimes less, you may visit the store for a trying-on. Lapel width, hem, button placement, and shoulder shape and width are fine tuned. If you don't like something, now is the time to make changes.

A week later, you may come by the shop to pick up your new custom-tailored suit or, if needed, for a second trying-on.

Raise your arms, wonder if it makes you look fat, or too stiff and corporate, or too callow and fashion-oriented, panic, if you must, then calm down.

Your suit is a living, breathing part of you. It's the only one like it in the ENTIRE world. It is yours and as unique as you. After a few opportunities of wearing it around town, the jacket will conform to your body and, if we did our job right, it will the very thing you imagined when you first walked into our store or even grander than that.

Wednesday, February 22, 2006

Your suit

(an owner's manual)

  • Never button the bottom one on a single-breasted jacket. Stylish gentlemen have been leaving it open since the 18th century. Sure it's just a fad, but when it's two centuries old why fight it? And if you wear a three-button, try using only the middle one.
  • Ties should never be wider than your lapels.
  • Double-breasteds have either four or six buttons. Do you think we sew them all on so you can have a giant flap of wool flopping about? Button all of them up to maintain the line.
  • Bow ties should be TIED! Come visit us and we'll show you how.
  • Never iron your sleeves or your lapels flat.
  • If you feel good, you look good.
  • You shouldn't feel good if you wear a blue blazer with black pants.